Method of making multiple seams



June 9, 1931. J. P. WEIS METHOD OF MAKING MULTIPLE SEAMS Original FiledNov. 15, 1928 6 Sheets-Sheet l J. P. WEIS METHOD OF MAKING MULTIPLESEAMS June 9, 1931.

Original Filed Nov. 13, 1928 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 June 9,1931. J p was1,809,461

METHOD OF MAKING MULTIPLE SEAMS Original Filed Nov. 13, 1928 6Sheets-Sheet 3 June 9, 1931. J. P. WEIS METHOD OF MAKING MULTIPLE SEAMS6 Sheets-Sheet 4 Original Filed Nov. 15, 1928 June 9, 1931. J. P. WEISMETHOD OF MAKING MULTIPLE SEAMS Original Filed Nov. 6 Sheets-Sheet 5' i@QN WDN Omw m g vVUUU IVVU awwm June 9*, 11931. J; P. WEIS METHOD OFMAKING MULTIPLE SEAMS Original Filed Nov. 15, 1928 6 Sheets-SheetPatented June 9, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE JOHN P. WEIS, OFNYACK, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE CORPORATION, OFNYAGK, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF DELAWARE METHOD OF MAKING MULTIPLESEAMS Original application filed November 13, 1928, Serial No. 319,072.Divided and this application filed July 12, 1929. Serial No. 377,682.

This invention relates to an improved method of making multiple seams,with a single handling of the work by the operator, in various articlesof manufacture, such as shoes, sporting goods, articles made fromleather, canvas and other materials, and other wearing apparel requiringa strong, flat seam, the present improved method being particularlyadapted for the sewing of taped shoe uppers or quarters, the presentapplication being a division of my contemporaneously pendingapplication, Serial No. 319,07 2, filed November 13, 1928.

-A further object of the-invention is the provision of an improvedmethod for first stitching the superposed parts or plies of the articlewith a single line of stitches, subsequently opening and flattening theseam, and stitching to the so flattened seam a reinforce ing tape in anexpeditious manner by parallel lines of stitches, with one handling ofthe article by the operator.

Another object of the invention is the pro vision of an improved methodwhich may be readily carried out by the provision of a plurality ofstitching and feeding mechanisms arranged in tandem relation whereby thework is conveyed from one to the other automatically for the productionof sewed artiperposed cles having 'a seam. composed of two separate anddistinct characteristics whereby the suparts of the article may be firststitched together and flattened out and subsequently stitched tocomplete the same.

Another object of the invention is the provision of an improved methodreadily per- .formed by stitching mechanisms so organized that,simultaneously with the stitching of the first seam, the margins of thetop and bottom plies of the seam will be diverted in opposite directionsinitially to open the seam and during the guiding thereof to a secondmechanism, and simultaneously with such movement from one'mechanism" to,the other,

a portion of the work will be overturned in readiness to receive one ormore lines of stitchingin the final stitching operation for I theformation of a taped, fiat seam.

In the drawings accompanying and forming a part of this specification--Figure 1 is a front end view of a machine adapted to carry out thisimproved method illustrating the stitching mechanism for sewing thesuperposed plies of material, the means for overturning one ply of the.work and flattening the scam, the means for applying a tape to theflattened seam, and the stitching mechanism for stitching theflattenedseam and tape with parallel rows of stitches;

Fig. 2 is a rear end view of the machine shown mounted upon apower-table;

Fig. 3 is a partly cross-sectional view of this improved machine takenon line 3-3, Fig. 2, and illustrates a front View of the in terposedpuller feed mechanism;

Fig. 4 is a top plan view of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the operating connections of the feedingand stitching mechanisms of the machine; a

Fig. 6 shows the two plies or pieces of work sewn together with a plainseam or single line of stitches;

Fig. 7 shows the two pieces of work with turned or flopped over;

Fig. 9 shows the top ply of the work overturned still further;

Fig. 10 shows the work with the top ply all the way over;

Fig. 11 shows tened out;

Fig. 12 shows the work with the tape stitched to the flattened-out seamby two parallel lines of stitches;

Fig. 13 is a perspective view illustrating how the two plies of work areseparated during the first stitching operation by means of suitableguiding members projecting between the pieces of Work; f

Fig. 14 illustrates the seam flattened by the pressure rolls of thepuller feed mecha-' nism; A

Fig, 15 is a sectional view of a portion of the work completely fiattheseam guiding and controlling means for from the feed rolls to the tapestitching mechanlsm;

Fig. 16 is a detail, partly sectional, view showing the initial seamflattening means and the separating members for overturning one ply ofthe work;

Fig. 17 is an enlarged plan View of the parts shown in Fig. 16;

Fig. 18 is a perspective view of the initial seam flattening means foreffecting the first flattening of the seam during the first stitchingoperation;

Fig. 19 is a perspective view of the throatplate and feed dog of thetape stitching mechanism;

Fig. 20 is a detail, cross-sectional view taken on line 20-20, Fig. 1,looking in thedirection of the arrows; and

Fig. 21 is a detail view illustrating three shoe uppers in which the twoplies of the upper A are stitched together by a single line of stitchesand the seam then flattened, as illustrated by the upper B, and thencove-red by a'ta e applied and stitched by two lines of stitc ing, asillustrated by the upper C, the said uppers being united by a singleline of stitches, whereby the feeding through the machine isfacilitated.

Similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in theseveral views.

Before explaining in detail the present improvement and mode ofoperation thereof, I desire to have it understood that the invention isnot limited to the details of con ings, since the invention is capableof other.

embodiments, and that the phraseology 1' which I employ is for thepurpose of deily accomplished if the stitching scription and not oflimitation.

In practice I have preferred to make use of'a power table equipment suchas shown in Figs. 2 and 3, for instance, upon which the machine ismounted, although this is not essential. Such a power-table, however,will facilitate the handling of the work by a single operator and offersadvantages by reason of the fact.that the various units or mechanismsmaking up the machine can be located to advantage in the factories wherethey are used so that the inspection of the work coming from the machinemay be taken care of by a single person engaged in the examination ofthe product delivered from these stitching units, which is not soreadunits are erected on ordinary sewing tables.

This power-table consists of two pairs of connected supporting legs 1and 2, connected by a brace or cross-member 3, which support a table top4 upon which the machine is mounted for operation. An electric motor 5is suitably mounted under the table top and is connected to a clutch 6of any well-- known type. This clutch is under the control of an arm 7of a bell-crank lever pivoted at 8 to the cross-member 3. The other arm9 has connected to it an adjustable rod 10, the lower end of which isconnected to a treadle 11. This treadle is pivotally supported on abrace rod 12 also connected to the legs 1 and 2. By manipulating thetreadle the clutch 6 of the electric motor 5 starts or stops theoperation of'the belt Wheel 13 carried on the end of the clutch shaft 14and carrying the sewing machine drive belt 15 which operates the beltwheel 16 to give power to the sewing mechanism, generally indicated by17 for stitching the two plies of the Work, in the form of machineshown, by a single line of stitches.

This sewing mechanism 17 is equipped with suitable stitching and feedingmechanism. While I have shown a sewing mechanism of the well-knownmetropolitanlrotary construction, the invention is not limited thereto,for any other type of sewing mechanism can be used for this purpose.However, in addition to the usual mechanisms em,- ployed for ordinarystitching, it is necessary to use additional mechanisms to accomplishthe desired result, which consist of special means for separating,guiding and controlling portions of the work, so that instead of anordinary seam being made by the sewing mechanism, a special form of seamis produced, delivered therefroinwith the margins of the seam opened upflat for subsequent operations.

The sewing mechanism 17 is secured to the table by bolts 18 andis-provided with a bottom shaft 19 (see, for instance, Fig. 5) and a topshaft 20 for operating the needle bar 21 carryin a needle 77.Co-operating with the needle 7 is a thread car ing looper 77a. The topshaft carries a sproc et wheel 22 for a chain 23 which operates asimilar sprocket 24 carried on a shaft 25-of' the second sewingmechanism, generally indicated by 26. This second sewing mechanism 26has a needle bar 27 carrying a pair of needles 145 operated by the shaft25 and which also has a bottom shaft 28 provided with a hand wheel 29for convenience in turning the sewing mechanism b hand. (Jo-operatingwith the pair of need es 145.is a pair of loopers 145a, each carrying athread. The sewing mechanism 26 is also secured to the table by bolts 30and may also be of the well-known metropolitan rotary construction, butinstead of being equipped with a single needle and looper like the firstsewing mechanism 17, it is provided, as stated, with two needles and twoloopers for making two separated parallel rows of stitches for thepurpose of stitching a tape 31.

The needle bars 21 and 27 are operated by the usual crank146 and pitmanconnections 147. To transmit rotary motion from the shaft 19 to theshaft 20 in the sewing mechanism 17, three-throw crank shafts andconnecting rods 148 are provided, while to transmit motion from theshaft to the shaft 28 similar crank shafts and connections 149 areprovided.

The four-motion feed mechanisms of both sewing mechanisms comprise anadjustable crank 150 operating a link connection 151 and a feed rockerframe 152 carrying the usual feed bar 153 and feed dog 154. The feed dog154 of the sewing mechanism 26, however, is shaped to suit the feedingof the tape 31 and to accommodate the two needles for making the twolines of stitches.

Thus each of the sewing mechanisms above referred to is provided withsuitable feeding mechanisms for feeding the work and with suitablelooper and needle operating mechanisms.

The tape 31 is carried by the reel 32 supported by a hanger 33 attachedto the bottom of the table top 4 (Fig. 2). This tape feeds upwardthrough the table top into a guide 34 carried by the sewing mechanism26, from which it is guided into proper stitching position.

In co-operative relation with the sewing mechanisms 17 and 26 is apuller feed mechanism'which assists in feeding, guiding and flatteningthe work as it passes from the first to the second sewing mechanism.This pull er feed mechanism (see Fig. 3) is also se-. cured to the tabletop by bolts 35 passing through the frame 36 thereof which, is pro-'vided with bearings 37 and 38 in which operates a shaft 39. On one endof this shaft is secured a feed operating wheel 40. Adjacent to thiswheel is a reciprocating ratchet memher or lever 41 carrying one or morefeed pawls for intermittent gripping action on the feed wheel 40. Acollar .42 holds the parts in operative position. A back-lash pawl ormember 43 controls the movement of' the feed wheel in one direction.This pawl is adjustably held in place by a fixed crank arm 44. Connectedto the lever 41, at 45 (see Figs. 1, 2 and 5), is a rod 46, the otherend of which is connected to a crank pin 48 carried by the belt wheel 16which thus gives movement to the rod 46, whereby intermittent movementis given to the puller feed shaft 39 and the feed roll 49 securedthereto.

Ihis feed roll 49 co-operates with an upper feed roll 50 revolving on ashaft 51 carried by a yoked bracket 52. This yoked b-racket is secured.to a presser bar 53 "oper- "ating in bearings 54 for up and downmovement. Attached to this presser bar is a lifting collar 55 whichco-operates with the curved forked end 56 of a lifting lever 57pivotally secured to the frame, as at 58. This part of the puller feedframe is in the form of an overhanging arm 60 terminating in the twobearings 54. A lug 61, formed asa. part of the overhanging arm, providesa support for a presser spring 62, the other end of which rests on thecollar 55, thus giving a downward pressure to the roller 50 which thusacts as a pressing roll for flattening the seam simultaneously with thefeeding of the work. To regulate the pressure on this spring 62, a screw63 is provided tapped into a lug 64 of the overhanging arm 60. In orderto lift the top roller 50, the lever 57 has an extending end 65 to whichis connected a chain 66 reaching down'to one arm 67 of a rock shaft 68carried by bearings 69. The other arm 70 (see Fig. 5) has connected toit another chain 71 extending downward and connected to a foot treadle72 which is also pivotally supported on the rod 12 side by side with thetreadle 11 (see Fig. 3). Pressure on this treadle 72 operates throughthe chains and the lever 65, pivoted to 58, ,to lift the roller 50 fromthe roller 49.

If it be desired, for any reason whatever, to hold the feed roll 50 inan elevated position, as shown in Fig. 1, a 'swinginglatch 55a isprovided and is pivoted to the collar 55 at 555 and can be swung intocontact with the casting at 550 and thus hold the roller up. Thisswinging latch is provided with a knob .or handle 55d for convenience inswinging it into and out of operative position by hand. i

The ply overturning-or flopping means 74 is secured to the bearings 54of the puller feed mechanism at 7 373 (see-Figs. 2 and 3) and is shownformed of sheet metal, and extends downward and outward toward thesewing mechanism 17. This member 74 (see Figs. 2 and 4) .has aright-angled bent portion 75, the edge 80 of which forms a guide, forthe purpose curved vertical edge 76 (see Figs. 1 and 2), and this curvedvertical edge 76 extends into position opposite the needle 77 of thesewing mechanism 17. The member 74 terminates at 78 in a pointed member79 (see Figs. 4, 13, 16 and 17) which extends backward and laterallyto-form the right-angled bent portion having the guidin edge 80hereinbefore referred to (Fig. 17 This rightangled bent portion 75 (seeFig. 4) is toward the rear of this member 74 increased in width, as at81, so as to form a flared portion 82 to act upon the seam in the mannerhere inafter described. This overturning member 74 has its point 79projecting in between the plies of material as it is fed through themachine and thus separates one ply from the other and gradually effectsthe overturning or reversal of one portion or ply of the material beingstitched as this ply is fed up the vertical inclined edge 76 of themember 74.

Attached to the cloth-plate 83 of the sewing mechanism 17 is a. guide 84(see Fig. 17 ad ustably secured thereto by screws 85 and provided withan elevating screw 86 tapped hereinafter set forth, and a into the guideshank 87, whereby the guide can be adjusted up and down and theprojecting end 88 thereof, which is secured to the shankbyascrew 89, canbe adjusted vertically. This projecting end 88 extends across the pathof the feed of the work to be stitched and is spaced above thecloth-plate, so that one ply feeds underneath while the other ply feedsover the top thereof (see Fig. 13). The adjusting screw 86 permits thevertical shifting of the guide so that the proper space is providedunderneath the same for the free passage of the work between it and thetop surface of the cloth-plate. The

guide is provided with an upstanding lip 90 for guiding the work andregulating the margin thereof from the stitch line to the edge and socontrol the width of'the seam. The guide 8487 for controlling andseparating the work is so located relatively to the stitching positionas to effectively control the work as if feeds through the first sewingmechanism, while at the same time it will not interfere with the ease ofplacing the articles to be-stitched in position, so that the feed andfoot will immediately take hold of the work and feed same through thesewing mechanism.

It is, therefore, important to have the parts arranged, as shown,relatively to the needle. Adjustably secured to this guide 84, by ascrew 92, is an extending portion 91 having a part 93 in position toengage a seam-flattening member 94 (see Fig. 17) carried by a stem 95secured in a holder 96 pivoted at 97 to a bracket 98 secured to thecloth-plate by screws 99. A. spring 100 attached to the bracket 98 hasits 'end eirerting pressure against the holder 96 so as to hold itagainst the work as it is fed through to flatten the seam, as shownin'Fig. 16, with one edge 101 turned upward and the other edge 102turned downward. The object of the spring 100 is not only to exertpressure so as to flatten the seam, but also to, yield so as toaccommodate different thicknesses of material.

f The presser foot 103, with a laterally-extending shank 10 1 and anupturned end 105, is carried by the presser bar 106 operating ,in thebearing 107 of the machine head 108. A guide 109 (see Fig. 1) preventsthe bar from turning in its bearing, and a hand lifter 110 is used forlifting the presser foot, a presser spring being provided to givepressure to the foot. For lifting the presser foot by a knee shift orotherwise, a hook and lever, generally indicated by 112, -may be used,either or both of which may bevconnected by chains with the pedalf72whereby they may belsimultaneously lifted with-the presserfeed ro ler.

The foregoing description of the presser foot mechanism of sewingmechanism 17 will also suflice for sewmg-mechamsm 26.

The presser foot 103'is'pr0vided with a needle hole 113 and acurved edge114 to permit the edges of the work, as it is being stitched, to turnoutward and downward so that the flared portions of the seam will passthrough thenarrow channel indicated at 115 (Fig. 16).

Now, viewing Figs. 6 to 11, inclusive, it will be seen that the needle77 passing through the needle holder 113 of the presser foot 103 formsthe seam 116 of Fig. 6. Immediately after the first stitches are made,the edges 101 and 102 are forced upward and downward to the positionshown in Figs. 7 and 8; then, as the work proceeds, the top ply rides upthe incline 76, which causes it to turn over, as indicated by 117 (Fig.9) and then, asthe work proceeds further, this top ply is laid over, asindicated by 118 in Fig. 10. As the work progresses to this position,the edges 101 and 102 gradually turn under so as to flatten out toposition shown in Fig. 11, while the seam is guided and drawn through bythe chain a of stitches 119 (see Fig. 21). As the work is fed through,the seam has a tendency to resume its initial condition, as shown inFig. 6, and before it enters the guidingmembers about to be described itthus has a tendency to spring back into a condition suchas illustratedin Fig. 20, wherein the bottom ply is indicated by 121 and the top plyis indicated by 120 and which top ply has been turned over. To preventthis, a curved guard 122 (see also Fig. 4:) limits and controls the topply 120, while a crotch-shaped guide member 123 rests upon the outsideor open portion of the seam of the work. This member has a shank 124secured to a bracket arm 125 (see Figs. 1 and 20) carried by theturn-over member 7%, being attached thereto by screws 126. Thiscrotch-shaped member 123 is adjustable vertically to suit differentkinds of seams and materials. The marginal edges'of the seam contactwith a curved member 127 (see Fig. 20) attached to the underside of a.bent-up guide plate 128 carried by a right-angled bracket 129 secured tothe frame of the puller feed mechanism (see Figs. 1 and 20). Thisright-angled bracket 129 also carries another bent-up guide 130, thusforming a space or trough between them for the passage of the seam, asindicated at 131 (Fig. 20). When the work reaches this point, however,it is fed and drawn along by the chain of stitches 119 (Fig. 21) byreason of the pull of the feed.

rolls 4:9 and 50 of the puller feed mechanism,thework having been guidedfrom the first stitching mechanism by suitableguides, comprising theedge 80 of the overturning ,member 74 and an overhanging edge of a com-123, the other part thereof being the op 0- sitely-e'xt'ending member orplate 137 see Figs. 4 and 20). A top guide member 135, shown formed as apart of the crotch shank 124 (see Figs. 1 and 4), has a curved forwardend 136 extending over the right-angled portion 75 of the turn-overmember 7 4 and acts against the work as'it feeds-through after beingturned over to force the seam down underneath the laterally-extendingcurved edges 81 and 82 (see Fig. 4) of the guiding means, whereby it isled to the crotch-shaped I member 123. Thus, when the seam reaches thecrotch-shaped member 123, it. is confined between the guide plates 128and 130 (Fig. 20) and so passes directly under the crotchshaped member123 comprising theangularly-extending plates 134 and 137. These membersor plates 134 and 137 extend back toward the lower feed roll 49 and anextending lip 138 (see Figs. 1 and 4) of the top guide 135 reaches outfrom the rear of such top guiding member 135, which, as stated, is'acontinuation of the shank portion 124 of the crotchshaped member 123,and so maintains the seam in proper position for passage to the feedrolls. By reason of these several guiding members, the seam iscontrolled and fed directly to the feed rolls 49 and 50, where it isfurther flattened (see Fig. 14) and fed to the rear stitching mechanism26. From the feed rolls of the puller-feed mechanism the seam of thework passes through a trough-shaped guide formed by a guide member 141comprising a bent-up'plate attachedby screws to a shank 139, which shankis attached to the frame of the puller feed mechanism by screws 140, andwhich guide member 141 forms a guide at one side, while a similarlybent-up plate 142, attached'by screws, forms a guide for the oppositeside of the seam. These guides are substantially the same as the guideplates 128 and 130 so far as the control of the seam is concerned.Duplicates of these guideplates, as 141 and 142, are also attached tothe slide plate 143 of the sewing mechanism 26. This slide plate fitsinto the cloth-plate 144 and is held in place by a simple spring clip,affording a quick means for the removal and replacement of the plate forconvenience in threading the loopers. The seam passes through the twosets of guide plates just described to the needles 145 of the sewingmechanism 26, which needles are suitably spaced (see Fig. 5) to make twoparallel rows of stitches, one along each side of the junction of theflattened seam, so as to place two rows of stitching through the pliesof work 120 and 121 and through each portion 101 and 102 of theflattened seam and also through the marginal edges of the reinforcingtape 31 (see Fig. 12).

As the work feeds out from the final stitching operation, the seam isthus completed with three stitch lines, as shown, 116 and 145?), andforms a taped seam adapted or use with shoes and other articles ofwearin apparel, as well as for sporting goods articles made fromleather, canvas and other materials requiring a strong, flat seam.

' The operation of the machine is as follows: Upon operating the foottreadle 11 the clutch 6 is thrown into operation and thereupon the motor5 drives the belt wheel 16 of the first sewing mechanism by the drivebelt 15. Simultaneously therewith the rear sewing mechanism 26 isstarted by the chain 23 connecting the two sewing mechanisms, and at thesame time the puller feed mechanism is started by the rod 46 connectedwith the operating means of the first sewing mechanism. The operatorthereupon places the two plies of work (in this instance, a pair of shoequarters or uppers) in.. .position' on the cloth-plate 83, one ply ontop of the other, with the projection 88 of the ply separating means-84and the forward or separating end 79 of the ply turn-over member 74between the plies (Fig. 13). The two superposed plies are then fedthrough the first stitching mechanism of the machine, making thestitchline 116 (Fig. 6). As the marginal edges of the seam which extend to theright of this stitch line project into the path of the seam flatteningmember 94 (Fig. 16, for instance), one edge is diverted upward and theother downwardand somewhat flattened. Space is required for the freemovement of the diverted edges, and to accommodate the downward bentedge 102 of the work I provide a clearance out 102a (Fig. 17) in thecloth-path 83 in the rear of the stitching mechanism. As the first sewedarticle emerges from the sewing mechanism 17, the top ply of the work120 feeds up the inclined edge 76 of the turn-over member 74 until thework has passed from between the feed and presser foot of the sewingmechanism 17. Then another article is started in the same manner as thefirst one just described. After the first article has passed the sewingmechanism 17 and while the second article is being stitched, it isnecessary to assist the feeding of the first article until the feedrolls of the puller feed mechanism can 'act upon it to feed it throughto the second sewing mechanism 26, unless the length of.

nism. From then on, however, the feeding one in position to receive thefinal stitchingv of the tape to the scam, the next in the process ofhaving the seams pressed down be tween the rollers of the puller feedmechanism, and the next just passing beyond the stzitching position ofthe sewing mechanism '1 I To facilitate the feeding of the separatearticles from onemechanism to the other, the connected chain of stitches119 is utilized (Fig. 21), this chain of stitches running from onearticle to another as the stitching proceeds, there being suflicientstrength to the chain of stitches joining the articles to enable thesewin mechanism 26 to do the entire feeding o the work; but, to insure amore positive feeding of the work and also to fiatten the seam, the feedrolls of the puller feed mechanism also assist in such feeding, and tofacilitate the starting of the work at the beginning of the stitchingoperation the feeding mechanism of the sewing mechanism 17 is employed.

From the foregoing it will be understood that when the sewing mechanism17 is placed in operation, the puller feed mechanism and also the sewingmechanism 26 are likewise operated in the manner hereinbefore explained,the movements of which are timed in relation to one another through theconnections hereinbefore described, so that the needles and feedingmovement are timed in' relation to' one another to efiect the properworking of the several mechanisms of the machine.

While I have shown three mechanisms in the grou forming this improvedmachine, two of w ich have stitching mechanisms, it is to be understoodthat the invention is not thus limited, for it is obvious that otherstitching mechanisms can be operated in a similar manner to effect aseries of different operations by the one handling or passing of thework through the group.

It is also to be understood that while the drawings and description showrotary and four-motion feeding mechanisms grouped in a particular mannerto suit the operation on the work described, with the puller feedmechanism in between the two sewing mechanisms so as to permit thispuller feed mechawork it may be desirable to have the puller feedmechanism in the rear of the sewing mechanism 26 so as to pull the workthrough both sewing mechanisms.

In the present improved machine the arrangement of the feedingmechanisms and the operation thereof provide independent adjustments forthe stroke of each feeding device, which permits the use of a slightlylonger stroke on any of the feeds as may be desired, according to thecharacter of the work the machine is operating on. By adjusting thecrank pins 150 (see Fig. 5) of the two sewing mechanisms, the feedstroke may be regulated. By adjusting the crank 48 (see Figs. 1 and 2),the stroke of the puller feed is regulated. Moreover, since each of thethree mechanisms has an, independent pressure by the medium of presserfoot or presser roller acting on top of the work, difierent degrees ofpressure can be had, not only for pressing the seams but also to efiecta change or regulation as a means of control for the feeding.

The cross-sectional View of the work in Fig. 12 shows two lines ofstitching 145?) made by the needles 145 of the sewing mechanism 26. Theillustration-is exaggerated to more clearly illustrate the seamstructure by reason of the slight space shown between the marginal edges101 and 102 and the plies 120 and 121, whereas in practice these partsare so flattened out and drawn together by the stitches that there is nospace whatever between the two. Thus it will be seen that the row ofstitches 116 extends transversely to the parallel rows of sitches 1455that is to say, the first stitch line at first is at right angles to theplane of the work (Fig. 16), but in the completed article (Fig. 12) itis parallel to the plane of the work, while the two parallel lines ofstitches are alwaysat right angles to the plane of the work (Fig. 12)and, therefore, transverse to the row of stitches 116.

Fig. 21 illustrates three articles representing shoe quarters, the firsthaving the seam 'A. partly flattened out and illustrates the seam as itemerges from the first sewing mechanism 17, while the seam B illustratesthe work as it is passing through the puller mechanism where the seam iscompletely flattened, while the part C shows the completed seam with thetape 31 stitched in place by the two lines of stitches 1455.

Since the work produced by the machine shown and described may befrequently in the form of separate articles stitched together, sucharticles being small portions of shoes or other similar articles, theyare delivered from the machine connected by means of the tape 31 as wellas a chain of stitches 119. lt is, therefore, necessary that these partsbe separated. This operation, in some instances,

can best be accomplished by an attendant who inspects the work as thepieces are cut apart while in other instances it may be desirable toemploy a mechanically-operated shears or severing device located justbehind the presser foot of the sewing mechanism 26, so that as eacharticle feeds through the knife or shear will separate one from theother.

A-brace bar preferably connects the overhanging arms of the sewingmechanism 17 and puller feed mechanism.

It is to be understood that by describing in detail herein anyparticular form, structure or arrangement, it is not intended to limitthe invention beyond the terms of the several claims or the requirementsof the prior art.

Having thus explained the nature of my said invention and described away of constructing and using the same, although without attempting toset forth all of the forms in which it may be made or all of the modesof its use, I cla1m:

1. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consistsof stitching two superposed plies of material, then while the lower plyis maintained in substantially the same plane during the sequence ofoperations, overturning the top ply thereof into reversed position withthe inside outside, and then stitching the seam margins with parallelrows of stitches.

2. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consistsof stitching two superposed plies of material, then spreading andflattening the seam margins thereof, then while the lower ply ismaintained in substantially the same plane during the sequence ofoperations, overturning the top ply of the work into a reversed positionwith the inside outside, and then stitching the flattened seam marginswith parallel rows of stitches.

3. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consistsof stitching two superposed plies of material, then spreading andflattening the seam margins thereof in opposite directions, then whilethe lower ply is maintained in substantially the same plane during thesequence of operations, overturning the top ply of the work into'areversed position with the inside outside, then while holding the seammargins so spread applying a sta strip to the flattened seam,

and then stitc ing such stay strip to the flattened seam with parallelrows of stitches.

4:. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consistsof stitching two superposed plies of material with a single row ofstitches, then spreading the seam margins in opposite directions andflattening the same, then guiding the seam margins and preventing thereturn thereof to their original position and during such guidingoverturning one ply of the work, then urther flattening thepreviously-flattened seam mare gins and feeding them into position toreceive parallel rows of stitches, then applying a stay strip to theflattened seam, and then stitching the stay strip thereto with parallelrows of stitches whereby the parallel rows of stitches will be laidtransversely to the single row of stitches.

5. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consistsof stitching two superposed plies of material with a single row ofstitches, then spreading the seam margins and holding, guiding andfeeding them, into position to be flattened, then flattening them inparallelism with the plies of material, and then stitching to the soflattened seam margins a stay strip with parallel rows of stitches.

6. The method of sewing articles with multiple seams which consists ofutilizing the stitches uniting a plurality of articles to feed sucharticles and simultaneously stitching superposed plies of one of saidarticles while overturning a ply, guiding and flattening the seam withthe seam margins spread in opposite directions of another of saidarticles, and sewing the so flattened seam of another of said articleswith parallel rows of stitches.

7. The method of sewing articles with multiple seams which consists ofutilizing the stitches uniting a plurality of articlesto feed sucharticles and simultaneously stitching superposed plies of one of saidarticles while overturning a ply, guiding and flattening the seam withthe seam margins spread in opposite directions of another of saidarticles, applying a stay strip to another of said articles, and thensewing the same to the flattened seam thereof with parallel rows ofstitches.

8. The method of sewing articles with multiple seams which consists ofpresenting the work to be stitched in a flat condition and stitching thesame, then shifting the seam margins into a vertical positionsubstantially at right angles to the body of the work, then shifting theseam margins into a substantially horizontal'position in parallelismwith the body of the work but spaced therefrom, then pressing the seammargins and the work together to eliminate space therebetween, and thenstitching the seam margins to the body of the work.

9. The method of sewing articles with multiple seams which consists ofpresenting the work to be stitched in a flat condition and stitching thesame, then shifting the seam margins into a vertical positionsubstantially at right angles to the body of the work, then shifting theseam margins into a substantially horizontal position in parallelismwith the body of the work but spaced therefrom, then pressing the seammargins and the work together to eliminate space therebetween, and thensupplying a covering tape to the seam margins and stitching the same tothe work.

10. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consistsof stitching two superposed plies of material, then while the lower plyis maintained in substantially the same planeduring the sequence ofoperations automatically overturning the top ply thereof into a reversedposition with the inside outside, and then stitching the seam marginswith parallel rows of stitches.

11. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consistsof stitching two superposed plies of material, then automaticallyspreading and flattening the seam margins thereof, then while the lowerply is maintained in substantially the same plane during the sequence ofoperations automatically overturning the top ply of the Work into areversed position with the inside outside, and then stitching theflattened seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

12. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consistsof stitching two superposed plies of material, then automaticallyspreading and flattening the seam n'largins thereof in oppositedirections, then while the lower ply is maintained in substantially thesame plane during the sequence ofoperations, automatically overturningthe top ply of the work into a reversed position with the insideoutside, then while holding the seam margins so spread automaticallyapplying a. stay strip to the flattened seam, and then stitching suchstay strip to the fiattened seam with parallel rows of stitches.

Signed at Nyack, New York, this 27th day of June, 1929.

JOHN P, W'EIS,

eoaeer

